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Wind Noise or Water Entry on Your MINI Side Windows?
If the driver or passenger side door window glass on your MINI Cooper, Clubman or Convertible does not close properly against the weatherstripping seals, you may need to adjust the positioning of the glass. When the window is maladjusted, this can cause wind noise and/or water entry. The glass may not be moving upward far enough to press into the upper and forward (A-Pillar) gaskets or the glass may not have the proper tilt inward at the top of the glass to press against the gaskets when the door is closed. In either of these cases, you’ll have to adjust the static glass position (for either inward tilt/angle, upward position or both).
This MINI Clubman needed three adjustments:
* The glass was too far away from the gaskets and needed more inward tilt/angle to press against the gaskets when the door was closed.
* The glass was too far down when all the way up and would not press upward into the gaskets after the door was closed and the “droop down” function was activated to move the window fully up.
* The front to rear angle of the glass was off. Not only did the glass not fully rise up into the gaskets, the rear-top of the glass was about 5mm lower than the front-top of the glass.
Let’s look at the procedures to adjust the door window glass for proper closing and sealing.
1) With the door closed, remove the door window motor fuse for the door that is being adjusted. On this 2009 Clubman, this was fuse #3 in the main fuse box (in the passenger side footwell).
3) Pull the door outward against the catch, The upper rear edge of the glass should just touch the upper gasket with very minor finger pressure against the glass. This vehicle’s glass was about 3/16″ away from the gasket.
3) If the glass needs more inward angle in order to touch the gasket (we prefer to have the glass just barely touch the gasket without any finger pressure), this is adjusted by moving the lower regulator-angle slide brackets. Remove the two rubber plugs in the bottom of the door to access the adjusters.
5) The forward and rearward slides can be moved inward or outward to decrease or increase the inward tilt of the glass. Work with the adjusters by moving and then testing the glass, as in step 2. Once the proper adjustment is achieved, tighten the adjuster bolts. Re-test to make sure the adjusters did not move.
6) Install the window motor fuse.
7) Check the window glass “drop down” retraction height. Close the door, then reopen. The window should drop down to the retraction height. Close the door to the first latch, as in step 2. Press the door inward against the latch. Measure the distance from the top of the glass, at the rear-top and the front-top, to the gasket lip. The glass to gasket lip measurement should be about 5mm. As you can see, this vehicle’s glass is too low and needs to be raised at both the front and the rear (more at the rear).
11) Insert the tool between the glass and the outer door skin (use painter’s tape on the painted lip of the door skin, to prevent chipping the paint with the tool). On the driver’s door, turn the tool counter-clockwise to loosen the nuts. Loosen both the forward and the rearward nuts.
12) Move the door glass upward or downward as needed to correct the height problem. This glass needed to be raised at both the front and the rear (as noted, more at the rear).
13) Raise the glass and close the door to the first latch to check the adjustment. Repeat as required until the adjuster nuts have been tightened and the height adjustment is proper (about 5mm at the front and the rear).
14) Fully close the door and check the final window closing as the “drop down” feature deactivates and raises the glass into the gasket. Check the opening and closing a few times to verify the glass to gasket sealing. Readjust is necessary.
15) Install the upper door edge molding strip and the two plugs in the underside of the door.
16) Enjoy your now wind-free and dry window sealing!
Non Marring Pry Tools:
Torx Bit set:
Through the winter season, most of us in the US (even in the southern states) will deal with an iced windshield, on our BMWs and/or MINIs, at least once, if not many multiple times.
Ice and snow on our cars is going to happen, whether in the northern climates or occasionally in the southern climates. This ice and snow naturally builds up on the windshield and the windshield wipers. The easiest way to clear this is to turn on the wipers, right? Well, no, quite wrong.
Ice on the windshield and the wiper arms and blades may have frozen the wipers in place. Turning on the wipers at this point will activate the wiper motor ….. but, the motor cannot move since the wipers are locked in place. This can overheat and damage or “burn-out” the motor. Additionally, it can damage the wiper transmission (the gears and linkages that change the rotational output from the motor into the oscillating action of the wiper arms). Both of these conditions can be expensive to repair. No ice, just snow? A heavy layer of snow on the windshield and wipers can do the same as the ice …. prevent the wipers from moving when turned on.
There’s another benefit to clearing the windshield before using the wipers. Running the wipers over frozen ice and snow on the windshield will significantly shorten the useful life of the wiper blades. The rough and often sharp frozen snow and ice really beats up the soft blade material. The worn blades will quickly start to streak and wipe poorly.
Soooo …. always clear the ice and snow from the windshield AND the wipers before actuating the wipers.
Don’t want to scrape the ice and snow?
Use the SnowShade! SnowShade lays over the windshield and protects the glass and wipers from ice, freezing rain and snow. Simply lift the cover off and the windshield and wipers are nice and clear …. ready to drive.
Got a lot of snow to clear?
Use what we use … and what professionals at car dealer lots use … the Sno Brum. The Sno Brum is a lightweight foam snow clearing tool with an extendable handle. The Sno Brum allows you to quickly clear light or heavy snow from the windows as well as the complete vehicle. A common sight, here at BAVauto, is a dozen Sno Brums flailing away in the parking lot on a snow day.
If you’ve been around BMWs and MINIs for a while, you’ve likely come to an understanding that BMW just can’t seem to make a properly functioning and reliable PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system. They either pass too much oil vapor, clog, rupture check valves or just do a poor job in the first place. The twin-turbo N54 engine (as used in the 335i, 535i, Z4 3.5i, X5 3.5i, etc.) is no exception. The oil vapor separation is poor, causing the need for walnut blasting of the intake ports and valves (see our DIY Video on this task, HERE) and the PCV check valve is weak in sealing under boost pressure …. and, before too long, fails to seal under normal pressures, resulting in boost pressure being applied to the engine’s crankcase. This is “not good”. At the least, this can increase oil consumption past the piston rings and valve guides, in addition to creating (or increasing) external oil leaks at the valve cover, oil filter housing, crankshaft seals, etc.
Replacing a weak or faulty PCV check valve requires that the complete valve cover be replaced. The valve cannot be replaced separately. And, if replacing the valve cover, you still get the weak original valve.
The FTP Motorsports upgraded PCV valve, for the BMW N54 turbo engines, prevents turbocharger boost pressure from being forced back into the engine’s crankcase. The FTP PCV valve replaces the factory valve and is much stronger, to seal under high boost. Additionally, it seals better, at all times, than the factory valve. As noted above, the original valve is not replaceable on its own. The complete valve cover must be replaced. Therefore, the FTP upgrade valve can be looked at as a repair piece for a worn-out original valve, as well as a performance upgrade to keep all of your boost where it should be …. in the intake, NOT in the crankcase.
The valve includes full instructions and can be installed without removing the valve cover.