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JUST FILLED UP YOUR 3-SERIES AND THE GAS FILLER DOOR WON’T CLOSE FULLY?
We’ve been receiving calls and emails from late model BMW 3 series (320i, 328i, 335i, 340i, 328d, M3, etc) owners who suddenly cannot close the fuel filler assess door after a fuel stop. In most (if not all) cases, we have found that the fuel cap tether cord (the rubberized cord affixed to the fuel cap) is caught is the hinge for the door or stretched over the filler cap.
The cure is to reposition the tether to a different orientation around the cap. You can simply rotate the ring that secures the tether cord to the base of the cap, to a position that allows the cord to fold into the recess and the door to close.
If the tether cord is damaged or broken, BAVauto can offer a new replacement cap with the tether.
The 2nd generation MINI S models (R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 Cooper, Clubman, Convertible, Coupe, Roadster) with the N14 and N18 turbocharged engines, have a habit of showing the “Reduced Power” fault light and going into a fail-safe mode that allows the engine to run, but at substantially reduced power.
Many owners (as well as shops, unfortunately) are confused on the purpose of the Reduced Power warning. The Reduced Power fault warning is different from the “Check Engine” light. The Reduced Power warning is displayed in the steering column instrument display, as an engine image with 1/2 filled in yellow. The Check Engine light is displayed in the main center cluster, as an engine symbol. These two symbols/warnings are not the same.
Check Engine warning light:
The Check Engine light (which, in this case, is an image of an engine, but is also commonly represented as the words “Check Engine or “Service Engine Soon”) is an indicator that an OBD-II (On Board Diagnostics-II) fault code has been generated and stored, that is deemed to be emissions related. The fault may or may not cause obvious engine operation issues. OBD-II fault codes are required as a part of the US emissions laws. A common OBD-II fault code reader will ONLY read the required OBD-II fault codes that are generated when the Check Engine light comes on.
Reduced Power warning light:
The Reduced Power light indicates when the engine management system detects a fault that is far enough out of parameters to cause the system to “protect itself” by reducing power output. These faults are recorded in the system, but are not accessible with a common OBD-II fault code reader. If the Check Engine light has come on as well, there will be an OBD-II fault code recorded in addition to the non-OBD-II code (that caused the Reduced Power light to illuminate). If there has been no Check Engine light, there will be no OBD-II codes generated.
We have found that the most common Reduced Power faults are the 2884 and 2885 codes (there certainly are others, but we will address these codes in this article. ). Both of these codes have to do with turbo boost. In most cases, the system is not producing as much boost (intake system pressure) as expected (under-boost) or is producing more than expected (over-boost).
Common causes for Under-Boost:
* Intake leaks - Leaks in the intake plumbing between the turbocharger and the intake manifold. Cracked pipes or loose fittings can leak boost pressure and reduce the boost.
* Worn turbocharger wastegate - A worn turbocharger wastegate will not seal properly and allow exhaust gasses to bypass the turbine wheel, resulting in lower turbine and compressor speeds and lower boost pressures.
* Turbocharger wastegate vacuum controller - The vacuum canister controller can stick or have a vacuum leak, preventing it from fully closing the wastegate.
* Turbocharger control pressure converter - The pressure converter controls the vacuum to the wastegate vacuum control canister via electrical signal from the engine management system. A faulty pressure converter can cause the wastegate to not be closed properly.
* Vacuum tank and lines- The vacuum tank is a vacuum reservoir for the turbocharger vacuum controlled pressure converter and wastegate controller. A vacuum leak in the tank or any of the vacuum lines can prevent the wastegate from closing properly.
* Defective Diverter Valve - Also known as the blow-off valve, this valve diverts pressurized intake air back to the inlet side of the turbocharger when the boost is too high, such as when the throttle is closed in the middle of acceleration. A defective or leaking valve can prevent proper boost from developing.
* Catalytic converter - A partially clogged catalytic converter can create exhaust back-pressure which slows the flow and velocity of the exhaust gasses through the turbocharger, which then creates lower boost. While clogged cats are not all that common on a well running engine, in this case, the the higher rate of oil that runs through the PCV system on these engines, eventually makes its way to the cat, in addition to creating the carbon build-up in the intake ports.
Common causes for Over-Boost:
*Carbon build-up - The N14 and N18 engines build up carbon deposits in the intake ports and the backs of the intake valves. These deposits can get quite substantial and can impede the intake air flow. The deposits must be removed periodically via media blasting with walnut shells. Click HERE for more info and a DIY on this issue. Note that the DIY talks about the BMW N54/55 6-cylinder engines, but the principle is the same for the MINI N14/18 engines and BAVauto® does offer a kit for the MINI engines.
* Turbocharger wastegate - If the turbocharger wastegate is not opening fully or properly, too much pressure can be developed in the intake system.
* Defective Diverter Valve - Also known as the blow-off valve, this valve diverts pressurized intake air back to the inlet side of the turbocharger when the boost is too high, such as when the throttle is closed in the middle of acceleration. A defective or stuck-closed valve can cause too much boost and intake system pressure to be developed under off-throttle or other conditions.
* Turbocharger wastegate vacuum controller - The vacuum canister controller can stick and cause the wastegate to not open as it should, creating an over-boost condition.
* Turbocharger control pressure converter - The pressure converter controls the vacuum to the wastegate vacuum control canister via electrical signal from the engine management system. A faulty pressure converter can cause the wastegate to not be open properly.
Finally, in addition to the above common faults, we have found that the 2884/2885 faults can be generated if lower octane fuel is used and the engine is run aggressively. So, before performing any other diagnostics or parts replacements, be sure you are running at least 89 octane fuel (91 preferred …. and this does allow higher boost and, hence, higher horsepower).
BAVauto® can help you with ANY parts that you may need for these issues or others on your MINI. Just call our Advisors at 800-535-2002 or visit our online store at www.BAVauto.com.
We’ve all heard the mantra; “Use narrower snow tires (than your standard summer tire size) because the narrower tire will cut through the snow and exert a higher pressure per square inch of contact”.
Makes sense, right?
While this makes sense in basic unsubstantiated theory, it is true?
A recent independent test was performed using three different sizes of one winter tire, on the same car, on a snow covered surface. The testing showed that the narrower tire did indeed have slightly better traction on acceleration (slightly = less than 1/2 meter in about 3mph to 20mph acceleration). However, the widest tire, with the lowest profile, had very slightly better braking performance. It’s worth noting that these slight differences could look different with a different tire. The key is that there really wasn’t much difference between the narrow tire and the wide tire. Finally, if the road surface is heavily covered, this may change the results and we may see a deeper advantage with the narrower tire.
Winter tires are NOT just for snow!
While some of us, in the US, may experience snow covered roads for much (if not all) of the season, most only deal with actual snow for short periods with combinations of rain, wet or dry surfaces for the majority of the season. During these periods, we need tires that perform well in both dry and wet conditions. Winter tires are designed to stay pliable in freezing temperatures, assuring full traction in all conditions. In wet conditions the narrower tires had more resistance to hydroplaning, but the wider tires had better braking (as long as they were not hydroplaning). As expected, in dry conditions, the wider tires did better in all categories. The more rubber we can put into contact with the road surface, in dry conditions, the more traction we will have.
Ok, So what?
In actual use, it’s more important to consider the actual tire being used (tread compound, sidewall construction, tread pattern, etc.) than the specific size of the tire. We could purposefully skew the results of a test like that above by choosing different winter tires that perform better in one area than another. This is why we use and recommend the Hakkapelitta winter tires for our BMWs and MINIs.
Nokian Tires developed the Hakkapelitta line of winter tires to provide the best overall winter driving safety envelope possible. These tires are superb in snow and also offer great wet and dry performance. Click HERE for an article on the Hakkapelitta tires.
The main key is that you DO install specific winter tires if you have to drive in winter conditions. All-season tires ARE NOT snow tires and perform very poorly in winter conditions. Anyone who has claimed the phrase “BMWs are horrible in snow!”, has never run a BMW (which, of course, is no different from any other rear wheel drive car) with four good snow tires.
Click image below for BMW & MINI winter tires: