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NO SCRAPING! USE SNOWSHADE TO EASILY CLEAR SNOW AND ICE FROM WINDSHIELDS
It’s winter season and we all just love the opportunity to brush and scrape snow and/or ice from our BMW and MINI windows before we can drive off. Actually, who said that? We know that we did not. Likely, neither did you.
Even if we love the beauty of the winter season and enjoy skiiing, snowmobiling and other winter sports and activities, most (if not all) of us would trade out the chores of shoveling, plowing and clearing our vehicles’ windshields before being able to drive. The SnowShade prevents ice and snow build-up on the vehicle’s windshield and allows the windshield to be cleared in seconds.
By installing the SnowShade on your BMW or MINI windshield, prior to an expected snow or ice event (and every night, to prevent frost or ice in the morning), all we have to do before driving is to release and pull off the SnowShade leaving a clear windshield. No Ice to scrape or heavy snow to clear.
We recently had to replace the thermostat on an S65 V8 in the E92 M3. We took a few photos and thought we would share the basic procedure. Thermostats do not last forever and if you own an E90/92/93 M3 you’ll likely have to address it at some point. Various OBD-II engine management fault codes can indicate a potential thermostat failure. We were seeing a P0128 code which indicates; Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature). Since the vehicle has 135,000 miles on it, we decided to replace the thermostat as well as the coolant temp sensor.
The applicable Bentley Publishers repair manual (for your year/model BMW or MINI) will detail all of the OBD-II fault codes and code descriptions.
1) Remove engine air filter cover, by removing the Torx screws around perimeter and releasing the hose clamps on the intake air bellows to the plenum. Disconnect the secondary air inlet hose from bellows. Remove the bellows with the cover.
2) Remove the lower air filter housing.
3) Remove the cabin air filter cowl housing assembly.
4) Loosen the 8 hose clamps securing the intake plenum to the throttle bodies.
5) Release the harness plug from intake air temp sensor.
6) Pull plenum up and away from the throttle bodies (and the PCV oil separators on each valve cover). Release the hose at the underside rear driver side of the plenum, as well as the air tube at the front driver side of the plenum and pull plenum up at the front and out and away from the engine.
7) Remove coolant to prevent overflow when thermostat is removed. Use suction/vacuum device (such as syringe-style fluid transfer pump) to remove coolant from expansion tank or otherwise remove/drain coolant using the radiator drain.
8) Release the fuel line from the two securing clips at the thermostat housing and near the fuel rail.
9) Release the harness plug from the thermostat housing temp sensor.
10) Remove temp sensor.
11) Disconnect the expansion tank vent pipe from the top of thermostat housing.
12) Disconnect the main upper and lower radiator hoses from thermostat housing. Catch any coolant spillage with towels.
13) Remove the three thermostat housing securing bolts.
14) Pull the thermostat housing forward (under fuel pipe) to disconnect from the two pipe connections at the rear of the housing, then up and away from the engine.
15) Remove the thermostat from the thermostat housing.
16) Install new thermostat into thermostat housing.
17) Remove the two connector nipples from the aluminum coolant connectors (one or both of the nipples may have stuck with the thermostat housing. If so, remove the nipple(s) from the housing) and replace two o-rings on each nipple.
18) Lubricate the nipple o-rings with silicone grease and install the nipples into the coolant connectors.
19) Install the thermostat housing (and thermostat) onto the connector nipples and down into the thermostat mounting port.
20) Install and secure the three thermostat housing securing bolt.
21) Install the temp sender unit into the thermostat housing and connect the harness plug to the sender.
22) Connect the three coolant hoses (vent, upper & lower).
23) Fasten the fuel pipe into the plastic securing clips.
24) Install the plenum, connecting the rear air pipe and the front hose while positioning into the throttle bodies. Secure the throttle body hose clamps.
25) Connect intake air sensor plug
26) Install the air filter housing, air hose, filter, cover and bellows.
Have An Older BMW With Jumpy Or Intermittent Temperature Or Fuel Gauge?
Does your temp or fuel gauge do this?
* Video credit to BAVauto® friend, Mitch S.
The engine temperature and the fuel gauges are mounted to the instrument cluster circuit board (The E30 3-series is specifically shown here, but the 3, 5, 6, 7 and 8 series up through the late ’90s and early ’00s have similar issues and are dealt with in a similar way). They are mounted by a single stud that protrudes off the rear of the gauge. The stud goes through the board (in addition to the two contact pins) and a nut secures it. The stud and nut provide the ground circuit, via their contact on a circuit trace on the board. When the nut is tightened, it makes contact with the circuit trace. Over time, the nuts can loosen and oxidation can form on the contacts. Disassembling the gauge from the circuit board, applying DeoxIT contact cleaner and reassembling, will often return the gauge to proper stable operation. This is not the only cause for the dancing, intermittent or inaccurate gauges, but it is the most common.
Disassemble the cluster, remove the nut, and pull the gauge from the board. apply a dab of the DeoxIT contact cleaner/enhancer to each contact point and reassemble.
Assure that the nut is secure to the mounting stud and also has a drop of DeoxIT before assembly.
The above photos show a VDO instrument cluster unit. The MotoMeter unit is similar, but the contacts for the pins look slightly different.