This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
I have a 2006 BMW 530i (N52).   Replacing  a valve cover gasket at the dealer was very expensive a few months ago!  With that said, I hope you can help me save some money.   
I think my oil filter housing is leaking.   I can see oil residue around the area.   I believe there are two gaskets to replace (one for the heat exchanger and one for the oil filter housing).   Do you sell  the parts and can you help me out with instructions on how to fix my problem?   Also, do I need to replace the six screws or can I re use them?

A
We are finding that the N52 6-cylinder engines are having the same oil filter housing leakage issues that have become so familiar on the earlier M54 engines. The repair procedure is similar to that of the M54 applications and is covered in the applicable Bentley repair manuals. Basically, you remove the housing (after dismounting the alternator and power steering pump and the oil cooler or disconnecting the coolant hoses) and replace the gaskets. The N52 engine has a gasket between the oil filter housing and the oil cooler, which should be replaced “while you’re in there”.

Click HERE for a post on the M54 engine oil filter housing leak

Click HERE for N52 oil filter housing to engine block gasket

N52 oil filter housing to oil cooler housing

Bentley repair manual:

Here’s a video from Bentley Publishing showing how to diagnose and replace the exhaust camshaft sensor on the BMW M54 6-cylinder engine.  This applies to many BMWs with the 6-cylinder motor including 3-series 99 thru 05 except M3, 525i 91 thru 96,  525i, 530i 01 thru 03, 525i, 530i/xi sedan and wagon 04,05, X5 2.5 and 3.0 thru 06, X3 2.5 and 3.0 thru 06, Z3 2.5i and 3.0i, Z4 2.5i and 3.0i thru 05.

If you have an engine management fault code (check engine or service engine soon light) for the exhaust camshaft sensor (or bank-1, sensor-2),  the first video shows how to diagnose the sensor.  If the diagnosis shows a fault sensor the cure is to replace the sensor then reset the fault codes using a reset tool. 

The Bentley repair manual (for the applicable chassis) addresses the sensor replacement.  Additionally, the video (below) shows the step-by-step process.

Camshaft position sensors
(ID model & search on “camshaft sensor”):

Bentley repair manuals:

Fault code reader and reset tools:

Thanks to Bentley Publishing for allowing us to post these videos.

Diagnosing the Exhaust Cam Sensor:

Replacing the exhaust cam sensor:

The Bavarian Autosport Power Programmer installs through the vehicle’s diagnostic port and performs a swap of engine management software programs, capturing and storing the original BMW/MINI program while downloading its performance-enhancing program to the car’s computer. (This storage feature is key: If you ever need/desire to reinstall the original software, you can use the same Power Programmer to restore the stock parameters.)

NOTE: The use of a 10-amp (or greater) battery charger during installation is absolutely required. DO NOT attempt the install without the battery charger connected. If you don’t have a battery charger, we offer a nice 20-amp version, shown in the photo above (Battery Charger part #VEC 1090A). Not only is a charger required for installation of your Power Programmer, it’s great for reconditioning older batteries so you can get more life out of them, as well as recharging drained batteries (yours, your friends’, etc.). Other than a charger, no tools are needed for installation. What follows is a condensed version of the instructions that will come with your Bavarian Autosport Power Programmer.

*  Bavarian Autosport Power Programmer

*  VEC Automatic Battery Charger

PROCEDURE:

1.  Plug the battery charger into a 120v AC outlet and connect it to the positive and negative terminals of the battery.

2. Put the key into the ignition. Open the driver’s side window. Turn off everything electrical including the radio and heat/AC system.

3. Locate the vehicle’s diagnostic port. The Power Programmer will install through either the DLC (Data Link Connector) port or the OBD-II (On-Board DIagnostics II) port:

DLC: BMWs produced for model years 96 thru 00 (and some 01) will have a round DLC port under the hood (fig. 1), as well as an OBD-II diagnostic port located in the interior, in the driver’s area (e.g. under a dash trim panel, side kick panel, center console area, etc. – fig. 2).

OBD-II: Most BMW models 01 on will have only the OBD-II port in the driver’s area (fig. 2).

4. Plug the Power Programmer into the diagnostic port (fig. 3).

5. Standing outside the car, close the door and turn the ignition switch to ON or IGNITION (the position that turns all of the systems and the instrument cluster fully on). The green STATUS LED (“C” in fig. 4) should be illuminated.

A. USB port
B. Active LED (red)
C. Status LED (green)
D. Upgrade button
E. Restore button
F. Start button

NOTE: From this point forward, DO NOT operate any electrical accessories and DO NOT open any doors.

6. Press the UPGRADE or START button (fig. 4); the STATUS LED will flash green. Over the next few minutes the red ACTIVE LED and the green STATUS LED will alternate between flashing and continuous illumination (your instructions will detail the full process) – all you do is sit back and watch.

7. When the green STATUS LED returns to a steady glow and the red LED is off, the programming process is complete. You may open the door and turn the ignition off. Do not remove the Power Programmer yet.

8. Wait at least 30 seconds and then turn the ignition back on. The STATUS LED will flash green for 10 to 15 seconds and then glow steadily.

9. Turn the ignition off, wait 30 seconds and then remove the Power Programmer from the diagnostic port. Replace the port cap/cover.

10. Disconnect the battery charger and now go take your quicker, faster BMW or MINI for a spin.

Q
I just purchased the M3. The former owner used Armorall to “clean” the
dash. Since that product is listed as a big “no-no” in BMWs, what can
you suggest I clean/remove the Armorall and what should I apply after
cleaning. I have purchased items from you in the past – you are the best
in after-sales assistance.

A
The Armorall and similar products actually have formaldehyde in them and this is what is bad for the plastic and vinyl products in, not only BMWs, but all models. We have found that one of the best products for the interior vinyl and plastic on our BMWs is the Lexol Vinylex cleaner & conditioner. We have the Vinylex in stock, here is a link to it on our web site:

Lexol Vinylex Vinyl/Plastic Cleaner:

Give your stock calipers the look of a big brake kit. MGP caliper covers are made of 6061-T6 aerospace aluminum with a long-life, powder-coat hydro-film finish, so they’ll keep their good looks for years. They’ll minimize the amount of brake dust that gets on your wheels, and they actually reduce caliper heat and subsequent brake fade. The patented, bolt-on fastening system makes installation easy and takes about 10 minutes per wheel -much faster and cleaner than painting your calipers. Plus there’s no need for tape, glue, paint or special tools – just a 3/8″ wrench. And because they are bolt-on, they’re easily removed and replaced to allow you to change your brake pads, rotors, etc.  Check out the install video (on a BMW E46 3-series 99-05) below.

Caliper Covers:

Caliper Cover install video:

We have found that some enthusiasts are having trouble with EML (German acronym for the electronic throttle system;  Electronic Motor Load) and CHECK ENGINE fault codes, as well as poor running, after completing the crankcase ventilation system replacement.  Through working with our customers, we have discovered a couple different causes, and cures.

*  Throttle body harness plug not plugged in securely.
- Check the plug and assure that is is fully installed and secure.  After securing the plug, re-alignment may be required.  Follow re-alignment procedure below.

*  Throttle alignment coding corrupted.
- Follow re-alignment procedure below.

EML re-alignment procedure:
(Note that this is not the official BMW method, but we have found that it has worked for our customers who have had this issue.)

* Keep the ignition key to the ignition position for 5 minutes.
* After 5 minutes move the throttle pedal to the floor 4 times, keeping the pedal at the floor for about 30 seconds each time.
* Return the key to the OFF postion and after 30 seconds start the engine.
* All lights should disappear except the Service Engine.  This will require a common OBD-II code reader/reset tool.

Reset Tool:

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
car year: 2002
car model: 525i
After a snowstorm drive my sensor in the dash reads -40 all the time. What could be wrong? i wonder if it’s become disconnected. Where do I find the outside sensor to look?

A
You likely either have a faulty exterior temperature sensor, the sensor has come unplugged or the sensor is missing altogether.  If the sensor is missing, it would not be uncommon for the harness plug to be ripped from the vehicle’s wiring as well.  We do carry all of the various model temperature sensors and we have plug repair kits for some of them.

See the Winter 2008 issue of our Fast Times newsletter for additional info on the external temperature sensors and mounting locations for most BMW models:

External temp sensor – for E39 (5-series 97-03) and others:
(see below for additional chassis information, E36, etc.)

External temp sensor plug repair kit for E39 & others:

E36 chassis (3-series 92-98):
On the E36 chassis, the sensor is located in the passenger side brake cooling duct. You can see it projecting into the duct, by looking into the duct from the front (assuming it has not been knocked out). To replace the sensor, you must access it by removing the under bumper splash shields. See the link above for the Winter 2007/2008 Fast Times, which shows a photo of the location.

E36 external temp sensor

E36 external temp sensor harness repair plug kit

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
Hi Otto. I have a blown headlight bulb (driver side) and it looks like this:

Do you have to replace the whole thing or can you buy the bulb only? If you have to buy the whole thing, what precludes you from buying bulbs like this to replace both sides (cost effectiveness)?

A
The bulb that you have is an HID Xenon bulb.  You cannot install any other type of bulb in this application (such as the Hella H1 bulbs that you also have shown).  We do offer the Xenon replacement bulbs.  You should also be aware that the Xenon bulbs are available in a number of different “colors”.  The replacement bulbs that we offer are of the same color as the original bulbs.  However, as Xenon bulbs age, their color changes a bit.  Therefore, when replacing just one bulb, you may find a slight color difference between the new bulb and the existing older bulb.

Standard replacement HID Xenon bulb:

PIAA upgrade HID Xenon bulbs:

car year: 2004 car model: M3 I purchased a Code Reader from you to read the codes because I was getting a Service Engine Soon message. The codes, from Table 1b are: 90 Fuel control, Bank 1 d6 PreCat oxygen sensor 1 slow response. Can you help me interpret what the problem may be?

A
In this case, the fuel control code could be a secondary result of the sluggish oxygen sensor (which is also for Bank-1). We would suggest replacement of the oxygen sensor as a first course of action. Clear the codes and then see if the fuel control code returns. We would also suggest that you replace both of the pre-cat sensors (bank-1 and bank-2), while you’re in there.

Oxygen sensors:

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
car year: 1982
car model: 320i
Hello Otto, I’ve got a 1982 320i with 240k on it. Despite its age, it’s been extremely well maintained. It’s facing its first winter this year and so far, so good. The one issue I’ve had is with the clutch. The clutch was engaging further and further down the motion, and eventually drained. I had the whole brake and clutch system drained and checked for leaks; none were found. After a few weeks, it happened again. I was told that the cold weather (I live in Ottawa, Canada, and it gets COLD up here!) causes shrinking in one of the pieces, allowing air into the system. I was told that there wasn’t much I could do, and that I could expect to replace my clutch (or parts of it) at least once each winter. I love my bimmer and would gladly do it, but before committing to doing so, I wonder: 1) Is this indeed true of all old bimmers like mine? 2) Assuming my mechanic is correct, is there anything I can do to prevent the cold weather from allowing air into my system? Any advice greatly appreciated.

A
From your description, we would assume that either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder is bypassing fluid past the piston seal. If there is no fluid leakage from the bottom of the transmission bell housing (this is where fluid from a leaking slave cylinder would show up), then it’s likely that the master cylinder is bypassing fluid. If both cylinders are aged, we would recommend that you just replace both and bleed the system. There is no reason that new/fresh cylinders would not handle the cold weather.

Clutch slave and master cylinders:

Clutch slave cylinder bleeder tool: