This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
car year: 2003
car model: 530i
This problem has happened 5 or 6 times already this summer. It has never happened before. When I leave work in the evening after a HOT day the starter does not engage. All of the other electricals seem to be working fine. The gauge lights all come on when I turn the key. I can lower the windows, etc. After the cabin cools for a couple of minutes, the car starts as if nothing was ever wrong. This only happens after the car sits in the parking lot on a hot day. I have not had a check engine light. I thought maybe something to do with the starter or solenoid, but what does the temperature have to do with it? Do you have any ideas?

A
Certainly, there are many possibilities to consider …. without any diagnostic info. However, we can go over a couple of the more obvious point as a first stage.

While a starter solenoid can be affected by heat, the fact that the starter seems to finally operate after the interior has cooled a bit, would point to something other than a hot solenoid. Consider that while the interior may have cooled a bit after the windows and/or doors have been open, this would not have any affect on the temperature of the starter.

The ignition switches on these models ( E39 5-series, E38 7-series and E53 X5) do have a history of faults and failures. It is possible that the hot ignition switch is not engaging the starter circuit initially, but does once it cools down.

The transmission range switch could also be affected by the heat. Have you tried operating the starter with the selector in the Neutral (N) position?

This comes down to either the need for some initial diagnostics or to try installing the part that has the highest probability of being at fault ….. and see what happens. In this case, we would suggest the ignition switch.

Ignition switch:

Starter and Solenoid assembly:

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
My wife has a 1999 528i BMW and the transmission in starting to go into “safe mode”. I have a code reader that I bought to reset the oil indicator, and it shows two error codes I need help understanding what they mean, they are:
CAN Timeout (ASC1)
CAN Timeout (EGS1)
Could these have something to do with what the transmission is doing ??

A
The CAN Timeout is indicating that there has been a longer than acceptable (as per the programming) time lag in communication between the DME (Engine control computer) and the noted control from another system, such as; EGS (transmission) or ASC (traction control).

Have you cleared these codes and do they return?  If they do not return, whatever caused the lag was temporary and should be of no concern.  If the codes do return, then there is a fault that needs to be addressed.  The fact that you are having transmission troubles certainly could be related to these faults.  Do you have any other warning lights on (ACS, ABS, etc.)?  If so, you may have an ABS/ASC control unit fault.  This is not uncommon with the E39 5-series chassis (as well as the E38 7-series and E53 X5).

In this case, a BMW dealer (or properly equipped and knowledgeable independent BMW specialist) would need to plug into the system with the full diagnostic tester and programmer in order to acquire further info from the system.

ABS/ASC Control Module – Search “ABS” after clicking link
(Note that the exact application must be verified by VIN and vehicle options):

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
I have a 2006 BMW 530i (N52).   Replacing  a valve cover gasket at the dealer was very expensive a few months ago!  With that said, I hope you can help me save some money.   
I think my oil filter housing is leaking.   I can see oil residue around the area.   I believe there are two gaskets to replace (one for the heat exchanger and one for the oil filter housing).   Do you sell  the parts and can you help me out with instructions on how to fix my problem?   Also, do I need to replace the six screws or can I re use them?

A
We are finding that the N52 6-cylinder engines are having the same oil filter housing leakage issues that have become so familiar on the earlier M54 engines. The repair procedure is similar to that of the M54 applications and is covered in the applicable Bentley repair manuals. Basically, you remove the housing (after dismounting the alternator and power steering pump and the oil cooler or disconnecting the coolant hoses) and replace the gaskets. The N52 engine has a gasket between the oil filter housing and the oil cooler, which should be replaced “while you’re in there”.

Click HERE for a post on the M54 engine oil filter housing leak

Click HERE for N52 oil filter housing to engine block gasket

N52 oil filter housing to oil cooler housing

Bentley repair manual:

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
car year: 2004
car model: 545i
First, sorry for the long email, but I need to explain a bit. I have a 2004 BMW 545i (with 112K miles) and have been having an issue for the last several months with my service engine soon light (SES) coming on. I have a fault code reader at home and was able to determine that it is associated with the secondary air system. The SES light will come on and then after some amount of time clear itself. About a month ago I took it BMW for some brake recall work and also had them evaluate the SES light and discuss that I seem to be using a lot of oil. At the time I was using about a quart every 1000 miles which is far more than it used to be. The dealer came back with an assessment that one of my secondary air control valve was sticking along with a valve cover gasket leak and an oil leak from my vacuum pump. I had them repair all that (hated the price but didn’t have the time to do it myself). They replaced both secondary air control valves and all of the tubing in the system while the engine was opened up and also of course replaced the valve cover gasket and vacuum pump. After having the car home within 24 hours I received the SES light again and it was associated with the secondary air system. You could imagine my frustration. The code I get from my code reader (which is one I bought from Bavarian Autosport) is from table 22 and is 2760 which is the general secondary air system. The code reader does not give me any specific secondary air system faults to components such as the pump etc – it’s just the general one. I’ve also notice over the past 20K miles or so that the idle is intermittently a little rough. Sometimes at a stop light it’s smooth and other times it rumbles a little like it’s going to shut down but is never bad enough to actually shut down. I took the car back to BMW and they set about checking their work. They reported to me that they could find no fault with their repair efforts or could not find any other fault with the secondary system. By process of elimination, they told me the problem had to be carbon buildup in my secondary air system channels/ports in the cylinder head and that this fault is very uncommon but not unheard of. They told me the repair for this was to remove the cylinder head (yikes!) and have it cleaned with a price tag north of $6K. In an effort to avoid this they decided to try a special “cleaning” and give it to me for free (normally about an $800 price tag). From what I understand they poured some concentrated cleaner in the secondary air system, let it sit for a day or so, and then drove the vehicle and let it run for several days to clear out the residual cleaning agent. I agreed to this since it was free and sounded like no harm would be done. Overall they put about 400 miles on the car. After I got the car home again the SES light came on again but this time it was about 5 or 6 days later. At this point I started doing a lot of research on the carbon buildup subject and from what I understand (via forums that is) the V8 engines have a tendency to have carbon buildup in the secondary air system. This is apparently due to incomplete combustion which results is lower secondary air flow when the pump comes on in the first couple of minutes of operation which triggers the low pressure sensor in the secondary air system and then the SES comes on. While I understand this conceptually, it doesn’t seem to fit the symptoms I have. Since I’ve had the car home I’ve been tracking how long it takes between intervals when the SES light comes on. When it comes on, I verify it is the 2760 code and then reset the light and the trip counter. So, over the past few weeks I’ve been keeping an eye on this and the distance traveled and time between the SES light episodes can be anywhere from 400 miles to about a 1000 miles ( I drive a lot) and the time interval is usually days to two weeks. The light most of the time comes on after the engine has been warmed up and been running for a while. Once in a while it comes on about 5-10 minutes after a cold start (outside temp was 55 deg). Since the secondary air pump only runs in the first minute or two after a cold start, then why would the SES light come on so much later while I’m operating? If it is carbon buildup, then I would think the SES light would come on frequently after I just started it up since the pump is running and the pressure sensor would sense the low pressure. In other words, I don’t think I would get the variability I’m seeing with the SES light if it were truly carbon buildup because that buildup would be there all the time and therefore very frequently trigger the SES instead of just occasionally after some significant driving time. My idle is also not really better. I had BMW adjust it. I replaced the spark plugs with Bosch Platinum about 100K miles and I’ve also been using additives to help clean the vales and injectors to see it improves the idle. No real effect and I still have episodes with the idle being just perfect and then drifting off to the rumbling I talked about above. Too early to tell on my oil consumption whether that’s better or not. BMW told me that it’s definitely not my rings as to why I’m using oil. Any help on the above would be greatly appreciated. I’m trying to see if there is more to be done before I have to do major surgery on the cylinder heads! I hope I can rent the tools if I have to go this route.

A
Thanks for the detailed (and easy to read) write-up on your symptoms. More detail is typically better than less (as long as it is related to the issue!).

Please see the blog post in the link below, for info on the oil usage:

Click HERE for N62 V8 Oil Usage

Unfortunately, the issue of carbon clogged Secondary Air ports (in the cylinder heads) is becoming common on the N62 V8 engines ….. just as it has been on the earlier M60 and M62 V8s and the 6-cylinder models with Secondary Air. We’re finding that most people are not opting to have the cylinder heads removed to clean the ports, due to the cost.

As for the period for setting a fault code, it would not be uncommon that it takes a while for the fault to be re-generated after resetting the system. The Secondary Air system is the last “readiness indicator” to be satisfied. Therefore, a fault code will not be generated until the proper cycles have been run to satisfy the Secondary Air readiness indicator. Once the cycles are run, the fault code will be generated (if there is a fault). There will be no fault generated until the readiness indicator is satisfied.

Your idle issues could be related to this, since all of the cylinders may not be receiving the same volume of air injection from the system. This could be “confusing” the engine management system, via the oxygen sensor readings. However, this would likely only be an issue when the system is running (cold start). We would not think that this would affect the warm idle characteristics.

If the Secondary Air system has been fully diagnosed to be functioning properly, then we would think that the problem may indeed be clogged cylinder head ports. Putting your idle problems aside, there is no real damage being done via the secondary air issues. Has any other diagnostic work been done in relation to the idle issue?

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
2004 545i
I seem to be using a lot of oil.   I am using about a quart every 1000 miles which is far more than it used to be.

A
Typically, when a late model BMW engine starts to use more oil than has been “normal”, this can be traced to a problem with the crankcase ventilation system. On the N62 V8 models (such as in your 545i), the pressure regulating valves can clog or rupture. The valves are located on the right and left valve covers, under the plastic trim covers. The valves are not expensive, you may want to replace them and see if this cures the oil usage.

N62 V8 Crankcase Ventilation Pressure Regulating Valves:

This DIY video (below), from Bentley Publishing, shows the basic procedure for replacing the rear suspension upper/rear control arms.  The inner bushings and the outer ball joints on these arms are common wear-out items, on the applicable chassis.  When worn, they can produce a clunking or rattling noise as well as odd handling and excessive tire wear due to camber and toe changes.

The upper/forward control arms are also susceptible to the same wear-out characteristics as the upper/rear arms.  The forward arms are replaced in a similar manner to the rear arms (as shown in the video).

The applicable Bentley repair manual will cover the full procedure.

Applicable chassis:
E39 – 5-series 97-03
E60/61 – 5-series 04-11 (exc. GT)
E63/64 – 6-series 04-11
E38 – 7-series 95-01
E65/66 – 7-series 02-09
E53 – X5 thru 06
E52 – Z8

Rear Suspension upper-rear control arms
(After clicking, ID your model and search “rear arm”):

Rear Suspension upper-forward control arms, guide links
(After clicking, ID your model and search “guide link” or “rear arm”):

Bentley Manuals:

Thanks to Bentley Publishing for permission to post this video:

This DIY video (below), from Bentley Publishing, shows the basic procedure for replacing the rear suspension outer/lower ball-joint.  This is a common wear-out item on the applicable chassis.  When worn, it can produce a clunking or rattling noise as well as odd handling and excessive tire wear.

The applicable Bentley repair manual will cover the full procedure.

Applicable chassis:
E39 – 5-series 97-03
E60/61 – 5-series 04-11 (exc. GT)
E63/64 – 6-series 04-11
E38 – 7-series 95-01
E65/66 – 7-series 02-09
E53 – X5 thru 06
E52 – Z8

Rear Suspension Ball-Joint:

Ball Joint Circlip:

Bentley Manuals:

Thanks to Bentley Publishing for permission to post this video:

Here’s a video from Bentley Publishing showing how to diagnose and replace the exhaust camshaft sensor on the BMW M54 6-cylinder engine.  This applies to many BMWs with the 6-cylinder motor including 3-series 99 thru 05 except M3, 525i 91 thru 96,  525i, 530i 01 thru 03, 525i, 530i/xi sedan and wagon 04,05, X5 2.5 and 3.0 thru 06, X3 2.5 and 3.0 thru 06, Z3 2.5i and 3.0i, Z4 2.5i and 3.0i thru 05.

If you have an engine management fault code (check engine or service engine soon light) for the exhaust camshaft sensor (or bank-1, sensor-2),  the first video shows how to diagnose the sensor.  If the diagnosis shows a fault sensor the cure is to replace the sensor then reset the fault codes using a reset tool. 

The Bentley repair manual (for the applicable chassis) addresses the sensor replacement.  Additionally, the video (below) shows the step-by-step process.

Camshaft position sensors
(ID model & search on “camshaft sensor”):

Bentley repair manuals:

Fault code reader and reset tools:

Thanks to Bentley Publishing for allowing us to post these videos.

Diagnosing the Exhaust Cam Sensor:

Replacing the exhaust cam sensor:

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
car year: 2006
car model: X3 3.0i
Less than 70K. I recently (3 weeks ago) did the yearly with fresh synthetic oil & filter. Checked other fluids, brakes, etc. Clean bill of health. Zeroed out the oil/inspection notice. X3 “check engine soon” light on. Code reader shows P2430; Secondary Air Injection System/ Air Flow Pressure Sensor Circuit Bank 1. I cleared code, but it came back in a couple of days. X3 runs well, no performance problems noted.

A
The code number P2430 is properly noted as; Secondary air system mass air flow sensor rationality.

This fault is indicating that the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) for the air intake of the secondary air injection system is giving a faulty signal. The MAF measures the amount of air flowing into the secondary air pump when it is running. Make sure that the harness plug is properly connected. If it is, the sensor may indeed be faulty.

Click HERE for secondary air MAF

The Bavarian Autosport Power Programmer installs through the vehicle’s diagnostic port and performs a swap of engine management software programs, capturing and storing the original BMW/MINI program while downloading its performance-enhancing program to the car’s computer. (This storage feature is key: If you ever need/desire to reinstall the original software, you can use the same Power Programmer to restore the stock parameters.)

NOTE: The use of a 10-amp (or greater) battery charger during installation is absolutely required. DO NOT attempt the install without the battery charger connected. If you don’t have a battery charger, we offer a nice 20-amp version, shown in the photo above (Battery Charger part #VEC 1090A). Not only is a charger required for installation of your Power Programmer, it’s great for reconditioning older batteries so you can get more life out of them, as well as recharging drained batteries (yours, your friends’, etc.). Other than a charger, no tools are needed for installation. What follows is a condensed version of the instructions that will come with your Bavarian Autosport Power Programmer.

*  Bavarian Autosport Power Programmer

*  VEC Automatic Battery Charger

PROCEDURE:

1.  Plug the battery charger into a 120v AC outlet and connect it to the positive and negative terminals of the battery.

2. Put the key into the ignition. Open the driver’s side window. Turn off everything electrical including the radio and heat/AC system.

3. Locate the vehicle’s diagnostic port. The Power Programmer will install through either the DLC (Data Link Connector) port or the OBD-II (On-Board DIagnostics II) port:

DLC: BMWs produced for model years 96 thru 00 (and some 01) will have a round DLC port under the hood (fig. 1), as well as an OBD-II diagnostic port located in the interior, in the driver’s area (e.g. under a dash trim panel, side kick panel, center console area, etc. – fig. 2).

OBD-II: Most BMW models 01 on will have only the OBD-II port in the driver’s area (fig. 2).

4. Plug the Power Programmer into the diagnostic port (fig. 3).

5. Standing outside the car, close the door and turn the ignition switch to ON or IGNITION (the position that turns all of the systems and the instrument cluster fully on). The green STATUS LED (“C” in fig. 4) should be illuminated.

A. USB port
B. Active LED (red)
C. Status LED (green)
D. Upgrade button
E. Restore button
F. Start button

NOTE: From this point forward, DO NOT operate any electrical accessories and DO NOT open any doors.

6. Press the UPGRADE or START button (fig. 4); the STATUS LED will flash green. Over the next few minutes the red ACTIVE LED and the green STATUS LED will alternate between flashing and continuous illumination (your instructions will detail the full process) – all you do is sit back and watch.

7. When the green STATUS LED returns to a steady glow and the red LED is off, the programming process is complete. You may open the door and turn the ignition off. Do not remove the Power Programmer yet.

8. Wait at least 30 seconds and then turn the ignition back on. The STATUS LED will flash green for 10 to 15 seconds and then glow steadily.

9. Turn the ignition off, wait 30 seconds and then remove the Power Programmer from the diagnostic port. Replace the port cap/cover.

10. Disconnect the battery charger and now go take your quicker, faster BMW or MINI for a spin.