Q
car year: 2005
car model: X3 3.0i
I have a 2005 BMW X3 that was delivered in December, 2004 and has the panoramic sunroof. I recently found a great deal of water in the boot area behind the right rear wheel well. I am told that X3s, especially earlier models had a sunroof water management problem and need to be cleaned periodically. I find a lot of general information on this subject but no details regarding where the drain tubes are located and where drains are located in the sunroof. There is some talk about routing them out using string trimmer line. Do you have any details regarding this problem and how to fix it?

A
Sunroof water leaks are, unfortunately, not uncommon on the earlier E83 X3 chassis (X3 through 2006). The leakage is typically due to clogged or pinched drain tubes and/or faulty sunroof cassette sealing. Evidence of the leakage can be water on the windshield, in the well behind the rear seat, in the rear corner wells and even coming through the headliner. BMW has a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on this; SI B 54 06 06. While there was a design change at 10/05, we are seeing issues with the later production units as well. BMW has not recognized this as a recall issue and if the vehicle is out of the original or CPO warranty (as many are), the best that can be hoped for is for the dealer to do a “good will” warranty.

What can the vehicle owner do? Inspect the sunroof drains. Look for the drains in the corners of the sunroof framework. If you pour water into the frame, it should readily run into and through the drains. The drained water should exit under the vehicle chassis in the general areas behind the front wheels and behind the rear wheels. Clean the drain openings with firm but flexible wire or pipe cleaners. You can blow compressed air (not high pressure) into the drains as well.

If you determine that you have drain problems that you cannot take care of on your own, a BMW dealer visit may be in order.

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
I have a 2006 BMW 530i (N52).   Replacing  a valve cover gasket at the dealer was very expensive a few months ago!  With that said, I hope you can help me save some money.   
I think my oil filter housing is leaking.   I can see oil residue around the area.   I believe there are two gaskets to replace (one for the heat exchanger and one for the oil filter housing).   Do you sell  the parts and can you help me out with instructions on how to fix my problem?   Also, do I need to replace the six screws or can I re use them?

A
We are finding that the N52 6-cylinder engines are having the same oil filter housing leakage issues that have become so familiar on the earlier M54 engines. The repair procedure is similar to that of the M54 applications and is covered in the applicable Bentley repair manuals. Basically, you remove the housing (after dismounting the alternator and power steering pump and the oil cooler or disconnecting the coolant hoses) and replace the gaskets. The N52 engine has a gasket between the oil filter housing and the oil cooler, which should be replaced “while you’re in there”.

Click HERE for a post on the M54 engine oil filter housing leak

Click HERE for N52 oil filter housing to engine block gasket

N52 oil filter housing to oil cooler housing

Bentley repair manual:

Here’s a video from Bentley Publishing showing how to diagnose and replace the exhaust camshaft sensor on the BMW M54 6-cylinder engine.  This applies to many BMWs with the 6-cylinder motor including 3-series 99 thru 05 except M3, 525i 91 thru 96,  525i, 530i 01 thru 03, 525i, 530i/xi sedan and wagon 04,05, X5 2.5 and 3.0 thru 06, X3 2.5 and 3.0 thru 06, Z3 2.5i and 3.0i, Z4 2.5i and 3.0i thru 05.

If you have an engine management fault code (check engine or service engine soon light) for the exhaust camshaft sensor (or bank-1, sensor-2),  the first video shows how to diagnose the sensor.  If the diagnosis shows a fault sensor the cure is to replace the sensor then reset the fault codes using a reset tool. 

The Bentley repair manual (for the applicable chassis) addresses the sensor replacement.  Additionally, the video (below) shows the step-by-step process.

Camshaft position sensors
(ID model & search on “camshaft sensor”):

Bentley repair manuals:

Fault code reader and reset tools:

Thanks to Bentley Publishing for allowing us to post these videos.

Diagnosing the Exhaust Cam Sensor:

Replacing the exhaust cam sensor:

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
car year: 2006
car model: X3 3.0i
Less than 70K. I recently (3 weeks ago) did the yearly with fresh synthetic oil & filter. Checked other fluids, brakes, etc. Clean bill of health. Zeroed out the oil/inspection notice. X3 “check engine soon” light on. Code reader shows P2430; Secondary Air Injection System/ Air Flow Pressure Sensor Circuit Bank 1. I cleared code, but it came back in a couple of days. X3 runs well, no performance problems noted.

A
The code number P2430 is properly noted as; Secondary air system mass air flow sensor rationality.

This fault is indicating that the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) for the air intake of the secondary air injection system is giving a faulty signal. The MAF measures the amount of air flowing into the secondary air pump when it is running. Make sure that the harness plug is properly connected. If it is, the sensor may indeed be faulty.

Click HERE for secondary air MAF

The Bavarian Autosport Power Programmer installs through the vehicle’s diagnostic port and performs a swap of engine management software programs, capturing and storing the original BMW/MINI program while downloading its performance-enhancing program to the car’s computer. (This storage feature is key: If you ever need/desire to reinstall the original software, you can use the same Power Programmer to restore the stock parameters.)

NOTE: The use of a 10-amp (or greater) battery charger during installation is absolutely required. DO NOT attempt the install without the battery charger connected. If you don’t have a battery charger, we offer a nice 20-amp version, shown in the photo above (Battery Charger part #VEC 1090A). Not only is a charger required for installation of your Power Programmer, it’s great for reconditioning older batteries so you can get more life out of them, as well as recharging drained batteries (yours, your friends’, etc.). Other than a charger, no tools are needed for installation. What follows is a condensed version of the instructions that will come with your Bavarian Autosport Power Programmer.

*  Bavarian Autosport Power Programmer

*  VEC Automatic Battery Charger

PROCEDURE:

1.  Plug the battery charger into a 120v AC outlet and connect it to the positive and negative terminals of the battery.

2. Put the key into the ignition. Open the driver’s side window. Turn off everything electrical including the radio and heat/AC system.

3. Locate the vehicle’s diagnostic port. The Power Programmer will install through either the DLC (Data Link Connector) port or the OBD-II (On-Board DIagnostics II) port:

DLC: BMWs produced for model years 96 thru 00 (and some 01) will have a round DLC port under the hood (fig. 1), as well as an OBD-II diagnostic port located in the interior, in the driver’s area (e.g. under a dash trim panel, side kick panel, center console area, etc. – fig. 2).

OBD-II: Most BMW models 01 on will have only the OBD-II port in the driver’s area (fig. 2).

4. Plug the Power Programmer into the diagnostic port (fig. 3).

5. Standing outside the car, close the door and turn the ignition switch to ON or IGNITION (the position that turns all of the systems and the instrument cluster fully on). The green STATUS LED (“C” in fig. 4) should be illuminated.

A. USB port
B. Active LED (red)
C. Status LED (green)
D. Upgrade button
E. Restore button
F. Start button

NOTE: From this point forward, DO NOT operate any electrical accessories and DO NOT open any doors.

6. Press the UPGRADE or START button (fig. 4); the STATUS LED will flash green. Over the next few minutes the red ACTIVE LED and the green STATUS LED will alternate between flashing and continuous illumination (your instructions will detail the full process) – all you do is sit back and watch.

7. When the green STATUS LED returns to a steady glow and the red LED is off, the programming process is complete. You may open the door and turn the ignition off. Do not remove the Power Programmer yet.

8. Wait at least 30 seconds and then turn the ignition back on. The STATUS LED will flash green for 10 to 15 seconds and then glow steadily.

9. Turn the ignition off, wait 30 seconds and then remove the Power Programmer from the diagnostic port. Replace the port cap/cover.

10. Disconnect the battery charger and now go take your quicker, faster BMW or MINI for a spin.

Q
I just purchased the M3. The former owner used Armorall to “clean” the
dash. Since that product is listed as a big “no-no” in BMWs, what can
you suggest I clean/remove the Armorall and what should I apply after
cleaning. I have purchased items from you in the past – you are the best
in after-sales assistance.

A
The Armorall and similar products actually have formaldehyde in them and this is what is bad for the plastic and vinyl products in, not only BMWs, but all models. We have found that one of the best products for the interior vinyl and plastic on our BMWs is the Lexol Vinylex cleaner & conditioner. We have the Vinylex in stock, here is a link to it on our web site:

Lexol Vinylex Vinyl/Plastic Cleaner:

Give your stock calipers the look of a big brake kit. MGP caliper covers are made of 6061-T6 aerospace aluminum with a long-life, powder-coat hydro-film finish, so they’ll keep their good looks for years. They’ll minimize the amount of brake dust that gets on your wheels, and they actually reduce caliper heat and subsequent brake fade. The patented, bolt-on fastening system makes installation easy and takes about 10 minutes per wheel -much faster and cleaner than painting your calipers. Plus there’s no need for tape, glue, paint or special tools – just a 3/8″ wrench. And because they are bolt-on, they’re easily removed and replaced to allow you to change your brake pads, rotors, etc.  Check out the install video (on a BMW E46 3-series 99-05) below.

Caliper Covers:

Caliper Cover install video:

We have found that some enthusiasts are having trouble with EML (German acronym for the electronic throttle system;  Electronic Motor Load) and CHECK ENGINE fault codes, as well as poor running, after completing the crankcase ventilation system replacement.  Through working with our customers, we have discovered a couple different causes, and cures.

*  Throttle body harness plug not plugged in securely.
- Check the plug and assure that is is fully installed and secure.  After securing the plug, re-alignment may be required.  Follow re-alignment procedure below.

*  Throttle alignment coding corrupted.
- Follow re-alignment procedure below.

EML re-alignment procedure:
(Note that this is not the official BMW method, but we have found that it has worked for our customers who have had this issue.)

* Keep the ignition key to the ignition position for 5 minutes.
* After 5 minutes move the throttle pedal to the floor 4 times, keeping the pedal at the floor for about 30 seconds each time.
* Return the key to the OFF postion and after 30 seconds start the engine.
* All lights should disappear except the Service Engine.  This will require a common OBD-II code reader/reset tool.

Reset Tool:

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
car year: 2000
car model: 528i
I have a 2000 BMW 528i (E39) with 144,000 mile on it. I am in the process of replacing the intake manifold gasket and came across the starter. Considering the amount of time it took to get to the intake manifold gasket would it be a bad idea to replace the starter now? I don’t know what the typical lifetime is on a starter in this model BMW with this high amount of mileage. Any advice you could offer would be helpful, thank you.

A
Well …. if your were to ask one of our agents who had his manifold off last year, and just had his starter fail, the answer would be slanted “just a bit” toward replacing the starter while you’re in there. By the way, he has 137,000 miles on the car.

Realistically, we see starter motors fail at under 100,000 miles all the way up to 200,000+ miles. The strong average is in the mid 100,000s though. And, since the intake manifold needs to come off in order to replace the starter (we have heard stories of people doing it from below, but it sounds like more work and hassle than just removing the manifold and going from above), we would recommend that you seriously consider a pre-emptive replacement of the starter if you already have the manifold off.  This recommendation applies to most, if not all, of the models that use the M50, M52, M52TU, M54, M56, S50, S52 and S54 engines.  In other words, most 6-cylinder;  3-series from 92-on, 5-series from 91-on, X3, X5, Z3 and Z4.

Additionally, do yourself a favor and order a set of box-end Torx wrenches, or just a single E12 size. Longer wrenches would be better than short and a moderate angle on the head, will help. This box-end Torx wrench will allow you to remove the upper/inner starter bolt from above and will usually work on the lower/outer bolt. Once the bolts are broken loose, you can use a 1/4″ drive 10mm 6-point socket and a 1/4″ drive swivel-head ratchet to run the bolts out.  If the wrench (or 1/4′ drive ratchet)  will not access the lower bolt, go from below with a socket, universal joint, long extension(s) and ratchet. Use a 3/8″ drive E12 Torx socket and bump it up to 1/2″ drive for the universal, extensions and ratchet.  If clearance is too tight for 1/2″ drive extensions, you can try 3/8″ drive, but you will lose more torque through flexing of the pieces.   The extensions will need to be long enough to run from the bolt, back past the bell-housing and down along the upper-side of the transmission, to the rear of the transmission, near the driveshaft.

Starters:

Intake manifold Gaskets (and hoses, filters, etc.):

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
car year: 2002
car model: 525i
After a snowstorm drive my sensor in the dash reads -40 all the time. What could be wrong? i wonder if it’s become disconnected. Where do I find the outside sensor to look?

A
You likely either have a faulty exterior temperature sensor, the sensor has come unplugged or the sensor is missing altogether.  If the sensor is missing, it would not be uncommon for the harness plug to be ripped from the vehicle’s wiring as well.  We do carry all of the various model temperature sensors and we have plug repair kits for some of them.

See the Winter 2008 issue of our Fast Times newsletter for additional info on the external temperature sensors and mounting locations for most BMW models:

External temp sensor – for E39 (5-series 97-03) and others:
(see below for additional chassis information, E36, etc.)

External temp sensor plug repair kit for E39 & others:

E36 chassis (3-series 92-98):
On the E36 chassis, the sensor is located in the passenger side brake cooling duct. You can see it projecting into the duct, by looking into the duct from the front (assuming it has not been knocked out). To replace the sensor, you must access it by removing the under bumper splash shields. See the link above for the Winter 2007/2008 Fast Times, which shows a photo of the location.

E36 external temp sensor

E36 external temp sensor harness repair plug kit