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There are more than 1,000 Q&As and DIY guides posted here. Feel free to search by keyword (upper right), browse by category (lower right), or watch one of our helpful videos. Once you've found the answer to your question, you can get the parts you need in our online store – www.BavAuto.com.
This video, from ZF Services, details the fluid and filter change (replacement) for the ZF 5-HP family of 5-speed automatic transmissions (5HP-18 with green label, 5HP-19, 5HP-24 with green label), as used in many later model BMWs.
Thanks to ZF Services for allowing us to post this video.
The applicable Bentley repair manual will detail the specific steps in changing the fluid and filter for your BMW model and transmission application. Click on the link below.
BMW E90 3-series models with LED taillights (2009 through early 2010 … and any other E90 3-series cars that may have these LED taillights) have developed a common fault with the LED light circuitry within the taillight assemblies. The fault causes the LED lights to dim or become inoperative. This often happens to just one side at a time, causing one side of the LED lights to be substantially dimmer than the other side (or not illuminated at all). BMW has addressed this by offering an updated taillight set that has modified circuitry to prevent the LED failure. The updated lights are sold as a set, in order to replace both the left and right taillights, preventing future failures of the original assemblies.
The repair is as simple as replacing the two taillight assemblies. This can be done in under an hour and requires no special tools or wiring. Follow along as we replace the LED taillights with the upgraded BMW kit, to fix the failing right turn-signal/hazard LED lights on this 328i x-Drive. When you are ready to tackle the job, you can order the metric socket set (and have it for your further BMW or MINI DIY work) and the Taillight repair/replacement kit at www.bavauto.com or call our Advisors at 800-535-2002.
* Click below for Metric Socket Set-
6) Install the new taillight assembly in the reverse order or the removal.
7) Repeat steps for the driver side taillight.
All set & ready to ride!
BMW started using urethane adhesives to install their windshields in the late ’80s to early ’90s (depending on specific models). With these models, the outer trim that covers the area between the windshield edge and the body, is just that …. a trim. Many people refer to this as a gasket, but there really is no gasket in these applications, unless you consider that the trim is keeping water and debris from running into the channel (or gap) between the window edge and the body panels.
Starting with the E36 3-series, E39 5-series and the E38 7-series and continuing on into the later 3, 5, 6, 7, X and Z models), the windshield trims are a plastic/rubber type that clips onto the edge of the glass and into the gap between the glass and the body panels. These trim pieces do not age all that well and start to deteriorate and come apart. This not only looks ugly, but can create wind noise as well.
We commonly hear of BMW owners who have been told that the windshield must be removed in order to replace these windshield trim moldings. And, of course, a healthy bill or quote is presented. We have found that it is not necessary to remove the windshield. The trim moldings can easily be replaced at home, with our non-marring pry tool sets and a bit of time and patience.
Follow along as we replace the trim on a later model BMW. Note that the various BMW models will have some differences in how the moldings specifically install, but the basics are shown here and this should allow you to determine if you’d like to replace your own windshield trim moldings. When you are ready to tackle the job, you can order the tools and the moldings at www.bavauto.com or call our Advisors at 800-535-2002.
* Applicable windshield trim for BMW model being repaired – www.bavauto.com
* Non-Marring Pry Tool set – www.BavAuto.com
1) Start at one of the upper corners and use one of the tapered pry-tools to work the corner up and out of the channel.
2) Use the wide pry-tool to loosen and push the trim back from the edge of the windshield, along the “A” pillar.
3) Pull the trim up and out of the “A” pillar channel. Do both sides before removing the top section.
4) Use the wide pry-tool to loosen and push the trim away from the glass, along the upper roof edge.
5) Use the tapered pry-tool to work the upper corner away from the glass and out of the channel.
6) Pull the trim up and out of the upper channel.
7) Clean the perimeter of the glass with a razor blade or “X-Acto” knife blade. Also clean out the channel between the glass and the body panels, using one of the smaller non-marring pry-tools.
8) Position the new trim over the windshield. Carefully center the trim (measuring and marking the center of the upper trim and the middle of the windshield, is a good idea).
9) Use the various non-marring pry-tools to push the trim down into the channel and around the edge of the glass. Start at one of the corners and work across the top, then work on the sides. Finish by using the wide tool to push the trim snugly against the edge of the glass, by pushing the trim toward the glass from under the outer lip of the trim.