BMW Replacing & Upgrading Brakes DIY – E90 and Most Other Models

This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.

Q
I will be replacing my front brakes soon and would like some advice and/or your opinion on parts and procedure. A tech article on this subject would be a worthy read. I plan to replace my rotors with original BMW parts but I have not decided on a pad yet. The car is somewhat aggressively driven and will see one to four track days. What pad do you recommend?Brake pad and rotor replacement would make a fine tech article. Example where and what type of lubrication on the caliper bolts and any friction points. Perhaps even proper usage of a anti-squeal product. Could even mention the benefits of the caliper guide bolt kit you have! Ever thought about selling a brake replacement kit? Like tune up kits or oil change kits? Everything included even high temp?

A
We do have a brake pad and rotor DIY article in the Spring 2008 issue of our Fast Times newsletter. The article addresses assembly, cleaning, lubrication, etc. Our recommendations for your 330i, for a street/track brake set-up are as follows:

* Rotors – Our slotted rotors will vent the gases that develop between the rotor surface and the pad, as the pads work at track temperatures. This will assure that there is no fade due to pad gassing. You can also look at using our standard rotors, which are both inexpensive AND reliable. This makes eventual rotor replacement more of a painless issue. Additionally, our rotors carry a 2 year warranty.

Slotted rotors:

* Pads- the Cool Carbon pads are your best choice for a dual-duty street and track pad. These pads perform excellent on the street, with good friction and pedal feel, as well as much less dust than an OEM or typical track pad. On the track, the Cool Carbons will stand up to the heat that is generated without overheating or fading. The pads will typically last for a full season of daily driving and half a dozen track days (depending on your track and driving style and abilities, of course).  These are the pads that we use (those of us that do track days, as well as those that just drive on the street).

Cool Carbon pads:

* Caliper Bushing Upgrade Kit – This kit replaces the original rubber guide bolt bushings with machined bronze bushings.  This eliminates the flex of the rubber bushing and keeps the caliper properly aligned with the mounting bracket which, in turn, applies full and even pressure to the pads and keeps the pads properly aligned on the rotor.  These kits do require periodic maintenance.  The bolts should be removed and the bolts and the bushings should be cleaned (with Wurth brake parts cleaner spray) and then re-lubed.  The interval will depend on the environment.  We recommend checking the bushings after 90-days to get an idea of their condition.  If maintenance is required, do so, and plan the next inspection accordingly.  If the bushings do not require service at this point, plan another inspection at a further interval.  We recommend either the Lubro-Moly Anti-Seize or the Sta-Lube Disc Brake & Caliper Grease for lubrication.

Caliper guide bushing upgrade kit .

* Fluid - The ATE gold or blue fluid would be the fluid of choice.  This fluid has a high boiling temperature and is highly non-hygroscopic (resists absorption of moisture).  Additionally, you can alternate between the gold and blue to assist in your fluid flushes.

ATE Brake fluid:

As a testimonial, I use all of these items on my M3, which is a daily driver and hobby track car. I have gone through many combinations in search of a workable street/track braking set-up ….. without spending thousands of dollars …. and the Cool Carbon pads with our slotted rotors has been an excellent combination for year-round use plus a few track days during the season.  Additionally, almost everybody that has their daily driver at the track uses the ATE fluid.