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March 11th, 2010 | Tags: Air Conditioning, Climate Control, E28, E30, E32, E34, Heating, HVAC | Category: BMW 3 Series 77-83 - E21, BMW 3 Series 84-91 - E30, BMW 3 Series 92-98 - E36, BMW 5 Series 77-81 - E12, BMW 5 Series 82-88 - E28, BMW 5 Series 89-95 - E34, BMW 6 Series 77-88 - E24, BMW 7 Series 79-87 - E23, BMW 7 Series 88-94 - E32 |
Q I have a 1991 535i. The blower speed switch only works on High. It is annoying because if you want heat or A/C it has to be cranked all the way up on High. I was wondering what the problem could be.
A The problem of the blower motor only working on the high speed setting is a common issue with the older BMWs, with non-digital control panels. The blower resistor unit has failed. Replacement is generally straight forward and is covered in the Bentley repair manual.
Click here, then ID your model, to see the blower resistor:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=98
Click here, then ID your model, to see the Bentley repair manual:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5228
March 11th, 2010 | Tags: E36 | Category: BMW 3 Series 92-98 - E36 |
Q I saw you had a quick fix for getting under the hood an older model bmw 3 series while having a broken hood release cable, and was wondering if there was any shortcut for opening the hood like the response in the winter 09-10 “Fast Times” for my model bmw, 95 M3 (E36 coupe), I have the same problem, a broken hood release lever and cable, the cable end has moved from the locking mechanism leaving the hood locked shut and the only way I know to get to it is taking off the bumper, aux fan etc. Can you Help? It would be greatly appreciated.
A We are not aware of a trick for opening the hood, from the exterior, on the E36 chassis (3 series 92 through 98) when the release cable is broken. Your notes about removing the bumper, fan, etc. are all that we have heard as well.
Once you have the hood open and you can replace the cable, you will have to access the area where the cable runs from the interior, through the inner fender, by removing the plastic inner fender splash shield. If this does not allow you to access the routing, you will have to remove the fender. You will also have to remove the nose panel to access the cable connections to the two latch assemblies.
Make sure you check out all of the routing of the original cable before you start to remove it.
Click here to see Hood cables:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=129
March 11th, 2010 | Tags: E36, suspension, wheels | Category: BMW 3 Series 92-98 - E36 |
Q I have a BMW 325is 1995. I am looking forward to Replace the Wheels. I saw some Wheels that I like and I have seen these wheels on this type of BMW previously. However I am pretty sure I will need to do some modifications in order to fit these. What can you tell me about this. The specifications in the wheels are: BMW Style #125 Wheels 18 X 8 47mm Offset and they weigh approximately 24 Pounds each. What kind of modifications or upgrades would I have to make to my suspension in order to fit these wheels?
A The BMW #125 wheels will fit on your E36 chassis (3 series 92 through 98). There is a chance that you could need 5mm or 10mm spacers, but this is usually not the case.
Click this link for Style #125 wheels:
http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=36+11+6+760+678
We would typically put a 225/40/18 tire. If you wanted to stagger and make the rears wider, you could use 245/35/18 at the rear.
Click this link for 225/40/18 tires:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5078
We can order the 245/35/18 tires in various Yokohama and Kumho models.
Click this link for Wheel spacers:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=401
As for suspension modifications, there are no specific requirements. However, you would certainly want to have the shocks, control arms, bushings and springs in top shape. therefore, if these areas and parts are currently in a worn condition, you’d want to at least get them into shape … if not add some performance changes, such as; Bilstein shocks, heavy-duty control arms and bushings and potentially sport springs (if you do want to lower the ride height and make the car firmer). Additionally, performance sway-bars can substantially add to the vehicle’s cornering power.
Click this link for Control arms and bushings:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=162
Click this link for Bilstein Heavy-Duty shocks:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=155
Click this link for Bilstein Sport Shocks:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=359
Click this link for BavAuto springs & shocks:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=212
Click this link for Performance swaybars:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=213
March 10th, 2010 | Tags: E60, E70, E82, E88, E90, E91, E92, Engine, noise, X3, X5, Z4 | Category: BMW 3 Series 06+ - E90, BMW 3 Series 06+ - E92, BMW 5 Series 04+ - E60, BMW X3 04+ - E83, BMW X5 07- present - E70, BMW Z4 02-08 - E85 |
Q My 2007 X3 has intermittent pushrod lifter noise on the initial start up until the engine reaches full operating temperature. The frequency can vary from once every two to three months to sometimes twice a month. This all started two weeks after I purchased the vehicle new. The dealer told me that the noise should go away after the break in period. At 8,919 miles I brought the vehicle in for what they explained was a bleed down procedure per a service bulletin. The noise returned intermittently and at 20,152 miles I brought it in again. They could not reproduce the noise however they did change the oil and it seemed to work for about 6 months and then it returned intermittently again. When the frequency increased at 37,907 miles I scheduled another appointment and they replaced all of the pushrod lifters. Two weeks later the noise returned. Using a stethoscope I have determined it is the number one cylinder however I can’t distinguish if it is the intake or the exhaust. It seems to me that there is some type of oil delivery problem however the dealer will not take any action until they can reproduce the noise. The vehicle now has 39,000 miles and has been at the dealer for over a week as they try to reproduce the noise. Your thoughts?
A The 6-cylinder engine in your 2007 X3 3.0si is from the N52 engine family (most 6-cylinders from 2007 to current, and some 2006). This engine is well known for the hydraulic tappet (lifter) noise. This has been typically attributed to too much oil bleed off in the cylinder head oil galleries that supply the pressurized oil to the tappets.
BMW has the following three “fixes”, which are only performed if the customer complains enough … and in the right way:
1) Perform tappet bleed-down procedure (typically does not provide a permanent fix).
2) Replace the tappets with an improved unit that bleeds down slower (sometimes cures the issue).
3) Replace the complete cylinder head with an improved unit that does not bleed oil pressure and flow as quickly and keeps more oil at the tappets when the engine is not running. This is of course the most expensive fix, but it is the final fix.
We could not locate a service or repair bulletin on this, but most people must really hound the dealer and request a review by the regional BMW rep. in order to achieve the final cylinder head fix. Don’t give up …. BMW is obviously well aware of this issue since they have redesigned the head and the tappets. They are just not so interested in replacing cylinder heads under warranty.
As for the dealer, in your case, refusing to go further unless they can reproduce the noise, try taking a video of it with the noise happening … show it to the regional rep.
March 10th, 2010 | Tags: emissions, Engine, tune up | Category: BMW 3 Series 06+ - E90, BMW 3 Series 06+ - E92, BMW 3 Series 84-91 - E30, BMW 3 Series 92-98 - E36, BMW 3 Series 99-05 - E46, BMW 5 Series 04+ - E60, BMW 5 Series 77-81 - E12, BMW 5 Series 82-88 - E28, BMW 5 Series 89-95 - E34, BMW 5 Series 97-03 - E39, BMW 6 Series 77-88 - E24, BMW 7 Series 79-87 - E23, BMW 7 Series 88-94 - E32, BMW X3 04+ - E83, BMW X5 07- present - E70, BMW X5 99-06 - E53, BMW Z3 96-03 - E36/7, BMW Z4 02-08 - E85 |
Q I bought the code reader for my bmw from you guys. The code stated the coil pack for cylinder 5 is going bad. I have purchased the coil pack but am not sure which is cylinder number 5. Do you have a diagram which shows the number for each cylinder?
A The order of the cylinders for all BMW 6-cylinder engines is 1 through 6, starting at the front of the engine. In other words, cylinder #1 is at the front of the engine (behind the radiator) and #6 is at the rear of the engine (close to the windshield).
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