recent posts
- 2001 BMW X5 3.0i Front Door Lock Freezing Up – E38, E39, E53
- BMW M20 Intermittent Miss, Crankshaft Position Sensor, 325i, 525i, 528e, E28,E30, E34
- BMW 740il Navigation And Radio Problems – E38, E39, E53, X5
- BMW 528i Turn Signal Indicators Not Working – E39, E38, X5
- BMW Z4 E85 – Instrument Cluster, Gauges Not working – Fuse
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September 3rd, 2010
Q
I own a 2001 X5 3.0i and have been having problems for the last couple of winters with the front door lock freezing up, especially the drivers door! I do not have any problem with the door freezing to the rubber trim or door gasket but the lock will freeze and be hard to open when it gets cold outside overnight ( 25-20 degrees or below) and then when I open the door to get in it doesn’t want to latch back to close!! I have literally gone down the road to keep appointments trying to hold the drivers door closed with my left hand while driving! Needless to say this isn’t a very comfortable solution or a very safe way to drive! I sprayed some white lithium grease in the works last winter that seemed to help but it has done the same thing again this winter when it gets cold overnight and doesn’t want to function properly until the interior and vehicle warm up to temp.!! I have sprayed some WD40 into the locks this winter which seemed to help to some extent (since it is a water displacing solvent) but I still have the same problem at times when it gets really cold outside or we have precipitation overnight or the previous evening. I need to know how to solve this problem or what to buy to put in my locks so my vehicle will operate correctly again ?! I know I can trust you guys to give me some sound advice in solving this problem. Thank you for any help you can provide me with this !!
A
The problem that you seem to be having is somewhat common ….. for much older BMWs. 20 to 25 degrees is not all that cold (in perspective). You may have a build-up of grease and dirt in the lock/latch mechanism that is getting too stiff in the cold weather. Additionally, the lock motors get a bit weak with age. Try spraying a solvent into the lock/latch assembly (preferably when it is warmer). In this case, we would typically try the Wurth brake parts cleaner. This is a solvent that will be most likely to dissolve the grease that is currently in place. We have also used the MechanicAll (from the makers of DeoxIT), which is a very high quality penetrant and lubricant. If working from the exterior does not fully cure the issue, you may need to remove the inner door panel to access the full latch assembly.
If it ends up that you feel you need to replace the latch and/or lock motor units, just give us a call at 800.535.2002 or email us and we can quote you all of the parts you may need.
Wurth brake parts cleaner:
MechanicAll:
Door lock actuators and door parts:
September 3rd, 2010
Q
car year: 1989
car model: 325i Convertible
I have an 89 325i convertible and it has been acting up since I bought it 6 months ago. I have since then put about $3000 into trying to make it run right and look good. The problem I’m having is; the CHECK ENGINE light comes on when it’s warmed up and idles at the same speed for 10 seconds or more, but goes out when i rev the engine. Also, it has one heck of a cutting out problem, on the road. While driving, the car runs great if I’m easy on it, unless I hit a hill. When I give it about half throttle, or more, it will cut off for about a second and then come back on and if I give slightly less gas it’s OK. The problem is consistent, but it varies in how much throttle it takes to cut out.
Now for the list of new parts; I replaced the O2 sensor, Air Flow Meter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing belt, fuel filter, took the injectors out and cleaned them (which weren’t dirty), fuel pump, fuel pressure reg. and maybe something else I’m forgetting. The same code keeps comming up as; O2 sensor exeeding its limits. What else could be causing this? Anything at all would be greatly appretiated. Thank you so much and I look foward to hearing from you.
A
With the description of your symptoms AND the list of parts that you’ve replaced, I would consider that you may have a failing crankshaft position sensor (this would apply to the 325i models through 91, 92-325ic, 88 325e and 528e and the 89-90 525i). The sensors can have problems where the harness wiring goes into the sensor itself or the harness plug. Additionally, the windings in the sensor head can break-down. This will often result in intermittent engine missing or problems under acceleration vs steady-state running.
The oxygen sensor fault code could be a result of the sensor picking up unburned fuel when the engine is running poorly.
Click below for crankshaft position sensor:
September 1st, 2010
Q
car year: 2000
car model: 740iL
I have a 2000 740iL that is having problems with the CD exchanger and GPS system, they do not work. The screen is gray with white squiggly line running through it. The radio only plays for about 5 minutes and them cuts off. I can push the button to turn it off and immediately turn it back on and it works for 5 more minutes. Any suggestions?
A
On BMW E39 (5-series 97-03), E38 (7-series 95-01) and E53 (X5 through 06) models with both navigation and the optional DSP upgraded sound system, the Navigation computer controls all of the navigation, audio and visual display functions.
Click HERE for Nav computer for 2000 E38
Note that exact part numbers vary depending on the various E38, E39 and E53 models. Contact our agents at 800-535-2002 for assistance.
September 1st, 2010
This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.
Q
car year: 1998 car model: 528i The turn lights (flashes) are working fine in the outside of my car . However, the periodic ticking sound and the turn signal indicator lights in the instrument cluster are not working at all. What could be the problem? Thank you very much for your help.
A
The most common fault for the symptoms that you’ve described, would be the Bulb Control Module (also known as Lamp Control Module or LKM). This would apply to the E39 (5-series 97-03), E38 (7-series 95-01) and E53 (X5 through 06). The bulb control module can be responsible for various exterior lighting troubles as well as the turn signal instrument indicators not operating and the turn signals and/or flashers operating on their own or not at all.
A replacement LKM does need to be coded by a BMW dealer or independent shop that has the proper equipment, prior to installation.
Click HERE for LKM for E39 through ‘01
Applications vary between the different models. Please feel free to give us a call at 800-535-2002 for model specific pricing and availability.
September 1st, 2010
Q
car year: 2004
car model: Z4 3.0i
The dashboard gauges on my Z4 are no longer working, could this be a blown fuse?
A
Check fuses 12, 23 and 24. Each of these is associated with the instrument cluster.
Click below for fuses:
September 1st, 2010
This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.
Q
car year: 2002
car model: 330Ci
The remote feature quit working on my key I got the spare key and it works fine.are the batteries replaceable in the key?
A
On the later BMW models that have the trapezoid (or diamond) shaped key head, the battery in the key is rechargable and is charged when the key is in the ignition. The battery is not replaceable. We would suggest that you have the BMW dealer check the key. It may just need to be reprogrammed. Otherwise, the key will need to be replaced (via the BMW dealer).
September 1st, 2010
Q car year: 1987
car model: 325i Convertible
I have a 1987 BMW, 325I Convertible, which I bought new. The problem I have is a vibration in the front end which starts at 62 mph, increase up to 70, then decreases after 75 mph. The tires are newer, Goodyear Eagle GT P195/65 R14 and the vibration was with the old tires as well. PSI is set at 32F and 32R. The shocks have been replaced, and I have had several garages balance the tires, to no avail. I even had the tires “Road Force Balanced” which helped some, but not enough. I’m told the wheels are okay and no one seems to find any problems in the front end or suspension. The car has 77,000 original miles and no suspension parts (other than shocks) have ever been replaced. I even switched the spare tire on all four corners and that did not help. The car is seldom used (approx. 500-1000 miles per year) and being the original owner, I know there is no damage resulting from accidents. The front end was aligned and no unusual handling characteristics exist. I’ve read that the ball joints may be bad with no signs of wear. Any insight to this problem would be greatly appreciated.
A
Yes, the ball joints may be worn, but the ones that are used on the E30 chassis (3-series 84-91) will show play when inspected properly. If the ball joints have play, the complete control arm must be replaced. I would assume that the control arm bushings are likely worn and soft. It is very common that the bushings will look fine, but they are just too soft to properly hold the rear of the control arm and to keep it from shaking. Your mileage certainly fits into this and as does the 23-year age.
Click below for control arms and bushings:
August 31st, 2010
Q
car year: 1994
car model: 525i
My BMW (manual transmission) makes a noise only when the A/C is on. The A/C works fine and it cools very good. It happens usually when I am coming to a full stop, but not all the time. It does not make the noise while running. Mechanic cannot pinpoint the problem. He thought of the blower but changed his mind after checking. The best symptom I can give is a combination of A/C on and coming to a stop.
A
Otto replies:
Thank you for your question.
Can you tell if the noise is from the interior (in the dash area), or from under the hood? Can you describe what the noise sounds like?
Luis added this info:
The noise is from the interior, the dash area. At some point I thought it was something wrong with the radio/speakers. The noise is medium-to-loud and sounds like a “cheap trumpet” or trailer air-brakes, and it stops when I turn the A/C off. It is really weird. Let’s suppose the issue is with the blower, what would be the right part(s) to change?
Otto’s reply:
The blower is a motor that has a shaft sticking out of each end, with a fan cage on each shaft. As the bearings wear, they can allow the fan cages to contact the plastic housing (there is very little clearance, in order to achieve proper airflow), or the bearings can make screeching or squealing sounds. Have you tried to duplicate the sound with the heat or just vented air on, and the blower running (just as with the A/C on)? If the sound still happens with the heat or vent air and the blower on, then it is definitely a worn blower motor assembly. Without having the car here to test, this is all I can think of.
The blower assembly is accessed via the access panel at the top of the firewall, in the engine compartment. The Bentley repair manual covers the removal and replacement procedures.
Bentley repair manual:
Blower motors:
August 31st, 2010
This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.
Q
I have questions about replacing the Driveshaft in my 1986 BMW 325es with a standard 5 speed. I understand that it is a two piece shaft with a Flex Disc at one end. How difficult is it to replace ? I know you must remove the exhaust system to work on the driveshaft. Can you replace the U-joints or is it better to just buy a remanufactured unit ? The manuals state that the original drive shaft has staked U-joints… So it may not be possible to replace the u-joint.
Do you have any suggestions on this matter?
A
The typical steps for BMW driveshaft removal are as follows:
* Remove the catalytic converter(s) and the rear muffler assembly.
* At the forward flex-disc (guibo) coupler, remove the nuts on the three (or four) bolts that go through the driveshaft flange. Note that some applications can have a C/V joint at the front. In this case, remove all of the bolts and nuts.
* At the rear differential coupler flange, remove the nuts on all four of the bolts. Some applications use a C/V joint at the rear. in this case, remove all six nuts.
* Remove the two nuts mounting the center bearing.
* Lower the center bearing so that the drive shaft forms a “V”. Pull the shaft to the rear and pull the nose of the shaft out of the front flex-disc and over the output shaft alignment finger. If you cannot pull the front of the shaft from the flex-disc and alignment finger, loosen the collar nut that tightens the splined slip joint between the front and rear halves of the shaft (not all models have this, however), and push the front half further into the rear half.
The u-joints on BMW driveshafts are not DIY replaceable. If the joints have play or are stiff, the shaft must be exchanged for a remanufactured unit. The remanufactured unit has new u-joints and a new center bearing, and is fully re-balanced. The same goes for units that have the C/V joints. These are not DIY replaceable.
If the flex-disc has any cracks in it, it should be replaced. Additionally, there is a guide bushing in the nose of the driveshaft (on applications that use the flex-discs). This should also be replaced (a reman shaft would have a new guide bushing installed). The center bearing should rotate freely with no play or gritty feeling in the bearings and the rubber surround should be free of cracks and moderately firm. The center bearing is replaceable.
Remanufactured driveshafts, flex-discs, guide bushings, center bearings and other drivetrain parts:
August 31st, 2010
Q
car year: 1993
car model: 325is
Hi, I have just put new lowering springs in the car. However, the front struts don’t want to go back in. The problem is getting the strut to line back up with the knuckle. I just can’t seem to get it. Am I missing something? Should I remove the nut for the ball-joint or the steering rod that seems to be getting in my way? Any help would be great. Thank you in advance.
A
You really shouldn’t have too much trouble getting the bottom of the strut back onto the spindle/knuckle assembly. We typically get the strut assembly mounted into the tower first (start the three 13-mm nuts that secure the mount up into the tower). We then work on lining up the strut brackets with the mounting points on the spindle. Align the upper part of the bracket first (use an alignment awl, through the holes, if needed) and insert the through bolt. You should now be able the align the lower alignment pin and the two bolt holes.
Make sure that you have the swaybar link disconnected. On the non-M3 models, the link can get in the way of the lower strut bracket. Additionally, on the M3s and the non-M3s, if the links are not disconnected and you do not have both front wheels off the ground, the swaybar will not allow the control arm to hang down fully on the side that is lifted off the ground.
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