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March 18th, 2010 | Tags: 2002, E21, E23, E28, E30, E32, E36, E38, E39, E46, E60, E63, E65, E70, E90, E92, washer/wiper, X3, X5, Z3, Z4 | Category: BMW 3 Series 06+ - E90, BMW 3 Series 06+ - E92, BMW 3 Series 77-83 - E21, BMW 3 Series 84-91 - E30, BMW 3 Series 92-98 - E36, BMW 3 Series 99-05 - E46, BMW 5 Series 04+ - E60, BMW 5 Series 77-81 - E12, BMW 5 Series 82-88 - E28, BMW 5 Series 89-95 - E34, BMW 5 Series 97-03 - E39, BMW 6 Series 04+ - E63, BMW 6 Series 77-88 - E24, BMW 7 Series 02-09 - E65, BMW 7 Series 79-87 - E23, BMW 7 Series 88-94 - E32, BMW X3 04+ - E83, BMW X5 07- present - E70, BMW X5 99-06 - E53, BMW X6 07+ - E71, BMW Z3 96-03 - E36/7, BMW Z4 02-08 - E85 | This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.
Q
I have a washer fluid leak. The leak is at the bottom of the pump. The pump has a square opening at the bottom and this is where I see the leak. I noticed the leak after the car came back from the body shop. A dent on the hood was repaired.I have replaced the rubber grommet that holds the pump in the washer fluid reservoir. Two issues:(1)Is there a check valve in the washer circuit? (body shop may have removed it)or (2) The pump needs replacement?
A
BMWs do have check valves in the windshield washer systems. This is done in order to keep the fluid in the lines and at the washer nozzles between uses so the pump does not have to move fluid all the way from the reservoir to the nozzles each time you want a “squirt”. Some models use one check valve (typically incorporated into the “T” that splits the single line to go to the two nozzles), while others have a check valve at each nozzle. Your 92 325i has a check valve at each nozzle.
With the above points noted, even if the check valve were not functioning properly, there should be no leakage in the system, either at the hoses or the pump. If the pump is leaking, it is likely faulty and needs to be replaced.
Another common problem, on the models that use the “T” check valve (3-series 84-91 & 5-series 82-88), is that the valve itself starts to leak. This can also happen on the double check valve systems.
Click here for BMW washer pumps, nozzles and check valves:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=45
March 18th, 2010 | Tags: E39, E46, E60, Engine, X3, X5, Z3, Z4 | Category: BMW 3 Series 99-05 - E46, BMW 5 Series 04+ - E60, BMW 5 Series 97-03 - E39, BMW X3 04+ - E83, BMW X5 99-06 - E53, BMW Z3 96-03 - E36/7, BMW Z4 02-08 - E85 | This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.
Q
car year: 2000
car model: 323i
Against the block, below the oil filter, is there some kind of gasket or “O” ring where the oil filter housing meets the block?
A We are finding that oil leaks from the gasket between the oil filter housing (and alternator and power steering mount) and the engine block are becoming quite common on the M54 6-cylinder engines (most 6-cylinders from 2000; 3-series through 2006, 5-series through 2005, X5 through 2006, X3 through 2006, Z3 and Z4 through 2005, except M and 3.5 turbo models).
The repair is to remove the housing/mount assembly and replace the seal/gasket. This procedure is covered in the Bentley repair manuals. Naturally, while you are “in there” you may want to replace the accessory drive belts (and possibly the idler and tensioner pulleys) since these will be removed anyway.
On an alternate note, we have also seen oil leakage on these engines from a housing plug (looks like a small freeze plug) on the rear of this same oil filter & mount assembly. The plug is not replaceable. The proper repair it to replace the complete assembly (!). We have seen success with properly cleaning the area and then applying an epoxy such as JB-Weld around the sealing area of the plug. Either way, the housing still needs to be removed for a proper repair …. and you’ll need a new gasket as noted above.
Click here for a link to the oil filter housing to engine block gasket:
http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=11+42+1+719+855
Click here for Bentley repair manuals:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5228
March 18th, 2010 | Tags: 2002, E12, E21, E23, E28, E3, E30, E32, E34, E36, E9, Transmission, Z3 | Category: BMW 3 Series 77-83 - E21, BMW 3 Series 84-91 - E30, BMW 3 Series 92-98 - E36, BMW 5 Series 77-81 - E12, BMW 5 Series 82-88 - E28, BMW 5 Series 89-95 - E34, BMW 6 Series 77-88 - E24, BMW 7 Series 79-87 - E23, BMW 7 Series 88-94 - E32 | This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.
Q I have a 89 635csi electronic automatic tranny with the sport, econo 3-2-1 selector. I am thinking about converting to a 5 speed manual tranny. In order to do the conversion, what parts would I need to do that, can you list all the necessary parts for me, please.
A
The earlier model BMWs are relatively straight forward to convert from an automatic transmission to a manual transmission. These models would be 3-series through 91, 5-series through 88, 6-series through 89, 7-series through 87 and the 2002, Bavaria and CS models. Later models can be converted in a similar manner. However, the check-control displays will show a transmission fault unless the instrument cluster coding plug is changed to a manual transmission model.
Here is a basic list of the parts that are needed, from the donor manual transmission car:
* Transmission
* Transmission mounts and crossmember (you should replace the mounts with new ones)
* Flywheel (perhaps a new original or a new light-weight unit)
* Pilot bearing (install a new one)
* Clutch assembly (obviously, a new clutch should be considered)
* Clutch hydraulics (master cylinder, slave cylinder and associated hoses & lines)
* Driveshaft (we’d recommend replacing the flex-disc and the center bearing)
* Complete shifter assembly (shifter support arm/plate and mounts as well as the shifter assembly itself. rebuilding the shifter with fresh original parts or a short-shift kit would be recommended)
* Clutch and brake pedal assembly
* Console shifter surround, boot and rubber floor sealing boot … and any other interior parts that may be different between the auto and manual models
Additional notes:
* The rear of the shifter support arm/plate will be supported, via a rubber mount, from the underside of the transmission tunnel by a bracket that is welded into the tunnel. The automatic transmission car may not have this bracket installed. You will have to remove the one from the donor car or fabricate one and affix it to the auto-trans car.
* On all but the latest model BMWs, you can remove all of the transmission wiring, switches and control units.
March 18th, 2010 | Tags: ABS, brake, E30, E32, E34, E36, E38, E39, E60, E63, E65, E70, E90, E92, X3, X5, Z3, Z4 | Category: BMW 3 Series 06+ - E90, BMW 3 Series 06+ - E92, BMW 3 Series 84-91 - E30, BMW 3 Series 92-98 - E36, BMW 3 Series 99-05 - E46, BMW 5 Series 04+ - E60, BMW 5 Series 82-88 - E28, BMW 5 Series 89-95 - E34, BMW 5 Series 97-03 - E39, BMW 6 Series 04+ - E63, BMW 6 Series 77-88 - E24, BMW 7 Series 02-09 - E65, BMW 7 Series 79-87 - E23, BMW 7 Series 88-94 - E32, BMW 7 Series 95-01 - E38, BMW X3 04+ - E83, BMW X5 99-06 - E53, BMW X6 07+ - E71, BMW Z3 96-03 - E36/7, BMW Z4 02-08 - E85 | This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.
Q car year: 1995
car model: M3
I have an intermittent ABS light on the dash that, of course, nevers shows up when I take it to the independent mechanic I use. The light comes on usually after driving for 5-6 minutes.. thinking it may be a wiring issue… This all started after flushing the system a while back. How can I determine what the ABS problem is? FYI… I have a code reader from you folks, will it read the code?
A
My first thoughts are that you may have a faulty wheel speed sensor or, perhaps, a corroded or “dirty” toothed gear-wheel (the toothed ring that the sensor reads as the wheels turn). You can check the resistance of each sensor (they should all be within 10% of each other), but if the problem is intermittent, this may not show anything. You can also remove the sensors, inspect and clean them (look for problems at the harness connection point at the sensor and the plug), and attempt to inspect the gear-wheel teeth through the sensor mounting hole. Of course, there could be other faults in the system.
If any of the sensors are suspect due to resistance testing or visual inspection issues, they can be replaced easily. If the toothed gear-wheels look suspect due to corroded or missing teeth, these are replaced via replacing the front wheel bearing assemblies (2-WD models) or the complete rear axle half-shaft assemblies (2-WD models).
Click here for BMW ABS wheel speed sensors:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5237
Finally, you can have the internal fault codes for the ABS system checked. When the fault light comes on, a fault code is stored in the system controller. The light does not have to be currently on to access the codes. This must be done with the full GT-1, MoDic or DIS type of diagnostic tool that a BMW dealer or well equipped independent shop would have. Your engine fault code reader will not access the ABS system. Unfortunately, at this time, there are no consumer type ABS code readers for BMWs.
March 17th, 2010 | Tags: E28, E32, E34, E36, E38, E39, E46, E90, E92, Engine, Preventative maintenance | Category: BMW 3 Series 06+ - E90, BMW 3 Series 06+ - E92, BMW 3 Series 77-83 - E21, BMW 3 Series 84-91 - E30, BMW 3 Series 92-98 - E36, BMW 3 Series 99-05 - E46, BMW 5 Series 04+ - E60, BMW 5 Series 77-81 - E12, BMW 5 Series 82-88 - E28, BMW 5 Series 89-95 - E34, BMW 5 Series 97-03 - E39, BMW 6 Series 77-88 - E24, BMW 7 Series 79-87 - E23, BMW 7 Series 88-94 - E32, BMW 7 Series 95-01 - E38, BMW X5 07- present - E70, BMW X5 99-06 - E53, BMW Z3 96-03 - E36/7, BMW Z4 02-08 - E85 | This answer is applicable for many BMWs in addition to the one listed below.
Q How do I change the engine oil on my 1997 Z3 with the 1.9 liter engine? Where is the oil filter?
A We have an oil change article in the Fall 2004 issue of our Fast Times newsletter (see the link, below). In the article, we use a 6-cylinder model BMW. However, your 4-cylinder Z3 will be similar. Many late-model BMWs have a plastic splash panel under the engine, covering the oil pan and drain plug (your Z3 does not have this). The panel should have an access panel, or door, under the location of the drain plug, allowing access to the plug without removing the complete panel (some models require removal of the panel).
You should be changing the oil and the filter at about 5000 to 7000 miles (or sooner, if the oil is turning black and opaque, when viewed on the dip-stick) ….. assuming you are using a high quality synthetic oil, such as our Lubro-Moly and Red Line oils.
The oil filters on most BMWs are accessed from under the hood (current model V8s have the filter mounted under the engine, in the rear area of the oil pan). Your Z3 has the oil filter housing located just under the forward end of the engine’s intake manifold, at the front of the engine, on the driver’s side of the engine. See the photo, the oil filter housing cap is the round black plastic cover in the lower/middle of the photo.
We do have an oil filter cap removal tool that properly fits the cap, easing the removal.
Ckick here for the Fall 2004 issue of Bavarian Autosport’s Fast Times newsletter (Oil Change DIY article):
http://www.bavauto.com/newsletter/2004_n404_newsletter.pdf
Click here for oil filters:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5106
Click here for oil filter cap removal tools and oil change drain pans and kits:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5112
Click here for synthetic motor oils:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5107
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